About Angkor
French
naturalist Henri
Mouhot hacked his way through the Cambodian jungle in
January 1860, in search of beetles and butterflies and
opened up this `lost city' to the world. The legend
became fact and a stream of explorers, historians and
archaeologists came to Angkor to explain the meaning of
these vast buildings. The earliest of these scholars
could not believe that Angkor had been built by the
Cambodian people, believing the temples to have been
built by another race who had conquered and occupied
Cambodia maybe 2,000 years before. Gradually, some of
the mysteries were explained, the Sanskrit inscriptions
deciphered and the history of Angkor slowly pieced
together, mainly by French scholars in the late 19th and
early 20th centuries. Mouhot wrote in his diary about sight of the ruins, made
the traveler “forget all the fatigues of the journey,
filling him with admiration and delight, such as would
be experienced in finding a verdant oasis in the sandy
desert. Suddenly, and as if by enchantment, he seems to
be transported from barbarism to civilization, from
profound darkness into light.” Mouhot was not the first European to visit Angkor. A
long line of traders, missionaries, and travelers had
passed this way before him in the 17th, 18th, and 19th
centuries. In fact, Mouhot’s visit was inspired by the
travels of French missionary Charle - Emile Bouillevaux,
who visited in 1854. For some reasons, the reports of
others had gone unnoticed by the West. Mouhot, traveling
under the auspices of England’s Royal Geographical
Society, was the most publicity conscious of the
visitors. He died in Laos in 1861 from a malarial fever;
his diaries and tale correspondence was published
posthumously 1863 in magazine called “Le tour du Mond”,
triggering European interest. Englishman John Thomson
took the first photographs of Angkor in 1886, and the
ruins exercised a powerful hold on the 19th century
European imagination. The image of ruined temples
emerging from thick jungle vegetation became part of
colonial romanticism the lost city rediscover. It was not until after World War II, when archaeologist
Bernard Groslier made aerial surveys of the area, that
the full extent of Angkor was comprises 70 monuments
scattered over an area of 200 square Km. The complex
tombs, temple, palaces, moats reservoirs, and causeway
was built over a period of 400 years. There’s nothing
like Angkor in Southeast Asia. Only two monument
complexes come close: 9th-century Borobodur in
Indonesia, and 11th century Pagan in Burma. The inspiration for Angkor architecture come from a
unique mix of Hinduism and Buddhism. The early rules of
Angkor promoted various Hindu sects, mainly dedicated to
Shiva and Vishnu. Shiva was initially the most favored
deity, but by the 12th century, Vishnu had replaced him.
At the same time the king encouraged Buddhist
scholarship; Jayavaman VII introduced Mahayana Buddhism
as the court religion by the end of the 12th century.
Layered onto these concepts was the tradition of
deification of kings in sculptural form. This mix
resulted in Angkorian structures that have no parallel,
such as the fantastic South Gate of Angkor Thom and the
bizarre Bayon.
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ANGKORIAN ARCHITECTURE
The caste system of the Khmers was similar to the
hierarchy extant in ancient Egypt and Mexico when the
Pharaohs and Maya erected their Pyramids. There was a
line of kings, a class of priests and merchants, and a
caste of thousands of slaves(captives of war), laborers,
masons, sculptors, and decorators. Artisans, including
architects, belonged to the lower echelons of society.
They remain anonymous-nothing is know of the stone
masons and sculptors who worked for the Angkorian kings.
Wooden buildings in Angkor area have not survived. The
use of brick or stone was reserved for sacred temples
and monuments. Architects must have worked with priests
on the design of such buildings: a number of
temple-mountains representing the paradise of Mount Meru,
center of the universe in Hindu-Buddhist commonly.
Rigidly geometric and symmetric pattern radiating in
concentric circles compose the ground of plans of a number of Angkor buildings. The effect is similar to a mandala or sacred diagram of the cosmos, with Mount Meru
at the centre.
East Angkor buildings were made of large bricks, with
mortar of vegetable–based adhesive. From the 10th
century on sandstone foundations were laid, and late
rite was used in walls. Late rite is a red, porous
material that is actually a kind of iron-bearing soil.
It is easily quarried up, cut into large blocks, then
left to harden upon exposure to the air. Angkor Wat and
Angkor Thom rest on late rite foundations; the temples
were mostly fashioned from sandstone quarried at Phnom
Kulen, 45 km northeast of Angkor. The sandstone exhibits
a wide range of coloration, from gray to pinkish,
yellowish buff to greenish. The sandstone was floated
down the Siem Reap river and dragged to the building
site using ropes, roller, and winches. A bas-relief in
the west inner gallery of the Bayon depicts the hauling
and polishing of sandstone. The roughly dressed blocks
were perfectly fitted, smoothed off, and the surfaces
decorated with bas-reliefs. Some stones were held in
place with bronze clamps, others relied entirely on
gravity.
SURVIVED? The name of “Angkor” surfaced in the 16th century - the
place was called Anjog, Onco, Anckoor, Ongcor, Angcor,
and Vat Nokor by Western explores. Angkor is believed to
be a corruption of the Khmer Nokor (nakhon in Thai, and
nagara in Sanskrit), meaning the Royal City of the Khmer
Empire. It was built between the 9th and 14th centuries
as the administrative and religious center of the
powerful Khmer Empire. Bas-reliefs like those at the
Bayon and Angkor Wat provide clues about life at Angkor.
This capital of the Khmer Empire, was undoubtedly as
splendid as many European cities. But much is missing
today. No wooden buildings have survived, and all the
residential compounds have disappeared. In 1431 the
conquering Siamese killed, looted, and destroyed,
carrying off thousands of slaves, tripping the palaces
and temples of their statuary and ornaments encrusted
with precious stones, and removing the gold coatings
from towers and rooftops. Gone are the wooden palaces
and dwellings with their terracotta roof tiles; gone are
the sumptuous carpets and furnishings, Chinese pottery
and ceramics, bronze weapons and cult objects, jewelry
and utensils, silk beds and parasols.
What remains are the huge sandstone blocks that could
not be carted away. Some artifacts-statuary, jewelry,
ritual objects-are on display at the National Museum in
PhnomPenh. The rest-the vast kingdom peopled by priests,
celestial dancers, astronomers, ministers, and generals,
and the court of Angkor with its banquets, music,
dancing, rich tapestries and paintings, merchants coming
and going-is left for you to conjure. In the haunting
contrast between past grandeur and present decay lies
the perverse pleasure of ruins.
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ANGKOR HIGHLIGHTS
You
could spend an entire week in Angkor, sun rise to sun
set, and still not see it all. Angkor and Siem Reap are
the kind of places for spend time. If time is short,
concentrate on the two main complexes, Angkor Wat and
Angkor Thom. Options vary on the rest; everybody seems
to have a personal favorite.
Following are the star sites:
Angkor Wat : Large and classical, this awesome
site is the world’s largest temple, with the world’s
longest bas-relief panels. On the second terrace are
friezes of celestial dancers. Expect to spend at least
half a day here, or make several visits.
Angkor Thom : This cluster of sites is another
must-see, and will again easily consume at least half a
day. The spectacular South Gate is the best-preserved
entry to Angkor Thom. The central temple, the Bayon, is
small in scale, but bizarre, mysterious, and
imaginative-the favorite of many visitors. North of the
Bayon are fine friezes at the Leper King terrace.
Aerial Views : A hike up Phnom Bakheng affords
fine sunset views of Angkor Wat. North of the Bayon is a
hike to a hilltop behind Baphuon temple. Both hilltops
give you a sense of jungle and forest vegetation.
Jungle-locked Ruins : Preah Khan and Ta Prohm are
romantic and spooky sites, covered by centuries of
vegetation. The French left Ta Prohm untouched to give
an impression of how
Angkor looked in the 19th century,
with tree roots and foliage winding through the
stonework.
Artificial Lakes : To get an idea of the
waterworks in the Angkor region, visit the ceremonial
bathing sites of Neak Pean and Sra Srang or journey to
the West Baray for boating or swimming.
Rural Living : Take a road in any direction from
Siem Reap and you’re in the countryside. Best excursions
are 13 km east to Rolous, where you can view village
life, or 15 km south to Lake Tonle Sap to see floating
houses waving over fish-holding pens.
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ANGKOR ROUTE STRATEGIES
Angkor Archaeological Park consists of about 70 ruins in
an area of 200 square km, although the key ruins are
clustered in a zone of some 60 square km. The French
engineered routes of hard-packed earth around the Angkor
area in the 1920s to facilitate visits by car. Several
roads were later paved, and dubbed Le Petit Circuit (The
Little Circuit) and Le Grand Circuit (the Grand
Circuit), but there are really no set patterns. You can
mix and match, or come up with your own routes.
Start early to avoid The heat but there are well-shaded
sections, especially around the Bayon. By bicycle or
motorcycle; It’s a good idea to take a siesta in a cool
spot : find a food stall (opposite the main gates to
Angkor or West of Bayon) or just go back to town and
rest. Angkor Wat at the break of dawn is awesome. A
little later, at the Bayon, it’s misty and mysterious,
with the sun filtering through the forest canopy,
illuminating enigmatic smiling faces; the chirping of
birds breaks the silence. The last glows of the setting
sun over Angkor Wat are dramatic, viewed from Phnom
Bakheng.
Angkor Wat is overwhelming. The mind cannot take it in
at one visit. Neither will your camera-attempts to fit
Angkor into a standard lens viewfinder are frustrating.
Visit to Angkor Wat in the late afternoon and monopolize
your time.
Northern Axis : Siem Reap - Angkor Thom (South
gate, Bayon, Baphuon, Leper King Terrace), Preah Khan,
back south to Angkor Wat west entrance, Phnom Bakheng
(sunset) - Siem Reap. Distance : 29 km.
Little Circuit : Siem Reap - Angkor Wat west
gate, Bayon, Victory Gate, Takeo, Ta Prohm, Sra Srang,
Angkor Wat east entrance - Siem Reap. Distance : 30 km.
North and East Axis : Siem Reap - Angkor Wat west
entrance, Bayon, Preah Khan, back to Leper King Terrace,
Victory Gate, Chau Say Tevoda, Takeo, Ta Prohm, retrace
route to Elephant Terrace, Angkor Wat again - Siem
Reap.: 38 km
Grand Circuit : Siem Reap - Angkor Wat, Angkor
Thom (South Gate, Bayon, Baphuon, Leper King Terrace),
Preah Khan, Neak Pean, Sra Srang, Angkor Wat east
entrance - Siem Reap. Distance : 40 km.
Combination Circuit : Siem Reap - Angkor Thom
(South gate, Bayon, Leper King Terrace), Preah Khan,
Neak Pean, Sra Srang, Ta Prohm, Victory Gate, Elephant
Terrace, Angkor Wat west entrance - Siem Reap. Distance
: 45 km.
Temples in Details
Follow are links from
The Angkor Guide. As my browsing, this guide is the
most complete online guide. You can get free download
such as map, about temples and so on. But iternity make
a bit Please click on temple name to view details.
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